Hair Color Directions

Preparing your hair for color

This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation on certain individuals and a preliminary test according to accompanying directions should first be made. This product must not be used for dyeing the eyelashes or eyebrows; to do so may cause blindness. (FD&C Act, 601(a))
Temporary “black henna” tattoos may increase your risk of such a reaction.

Perform a Patch Test:
Before applying any hair color it’s important to perform a patch test. This will check for sensitization and/or if there will be a reaction to the product.

  • 1. On a small area of skin, either behind the ear or the inside of the elbow, place a thin dime size layer of color.
  • 2. Leave it undisturbed for 24-48 hours. Do not wash, cover or touch.
  • 3. If during the test period you notice anything unusual (itching, redness and/or swelling) on or around the area: DO NOT APPLY THE PRODUCT!

Pre-Lighten Your Hair:
Use the guide below to determine the ideal (minimum) level of pre-lightening recommended for your color. If using multiple colors pre-lighten to the color with the higher level.
Note: Make sure to completely remove all lightening products from the hair, anything left behind will interfere with the color process and give undesirable results. Wash, rinse and let it dry thoroughly. If desired allow a day to pass before applying color to help the scalp recover.

 Color Desired: Pre-lightening:
Blackout Level 4
Bold Blue, Green, Pink, Purple, Orange, Red, Teal, Violet
and Yellow; Illuminate ; Neon Chartreuse, Green, Orange,
Pink, Purple, Red and Yellow
Level 8
Bold Fuchsia; Pastel Blue, Coral, Lavender, Peach, Pink,
Seafoam, Teal and Yellow; Overcast ; Neon Blue
Level 9

Do a Strand Test:
To ensure desirable results, process a small section of hair for 20-30 minutes in an unnoticeable location before attempting to color a larger section.

Coloring your hair

Protecting Yourself:
Always wear protective gloves and apply a conditioner or petroleum jelly around the hairline and top of the ears to help prevent staining.

Applying The Color:
Using a clean color/tint brush, apply the color to recently lightened dry hair. Starting at the scalp work the color through the hair in multiple directions, continue to the ends. Sectioning the hair can make the application easier. Make sure the hair is thoroughly saturated with color.

Once the color has been applied let it rest for 20-30 minutes at room temperature. Applying extra heat can affect the process. Cover the hair with a plastic cap if you wish to process for an extended period of time.

Rinse Clear:
Rinse as much of the dye out as possible with cold/cool water. Some bleeding will occur and this is to be expected. Follow up by washing the hair with a color protecting low pH shampoo and color protecting conditioner.

Making It Last:
Because of the natural variations in hair and the conditions encountered when bleaching the length of time a color will last is not easily determined. Exposure to sunlight and environmental conditions may cause the color to fade prematurely. A low pH color protecting shampoo and conditioner as well as refraining from extended sunlight exposure can help keep your color looking vibrant.UV protecting products can also help bring longevity to your color.

Mixing/Customizing Colors:
Underground Cosmetics hair colors are ideal for creating custom hues. The color in the bowl is the color you will see on the pre-lightened hair. It’s very important to pre-lighten to the proper level in order to achieve the desired color. If there is any leftover color remaining from a prior application it will affect the final outcome and overly damaged or processed hair will not readily take color giving undesirable results.

When mixing Blackout with other colors use the pre-lightening guide to determine a level or two below that of the color being used and when mixing Illuminate with other colors use the pre-lightening guide to determine a level or two above that of the color being used.